Professor Kraig
writes:
How many people know that what
we eat today, and what we buy in our
supermarkets, is the result of a war fought
150 years ago?
War is always a catalyst for change, and of all
American wars, none changed the country more than
the Civil War. That war accelerated trends and
currents that were already going on, from
economics, to social conditions, and cultural
perceptions. For instance, would we have had a
Civil War if not for intransigent political
leaders who expressed the cultural thought
economic forces, and social structures of their
various sections of the nation? So, the first war
with mass mobilization of men and materiel broke
out. And with it came what are now familiar
effects: centralization of authority and economies
into the hands of governments and larger business
entities; technological change and
intensification; and new plenty of other political
and social ideas percolating through society. All
of these have to do with food production because,
as Napoleon supposedly said, an army travels on
its stomach.
The North won the war because it produced more
food (and arms) and organized its distribution
better than the South. The ultimate result of all
this was massive changes in the way that Americans
grew, shipped, and processed food-and, of course,
in what they ate. What we eat today can be said to
be a direct result of events that unfolded just
150 years ago.
"Whatever you eat, you’re eating
history. Food is the driving force in human
history, from changes in early human morphology to
human transformation of the natural world.
The whole story of America really comes down to
food, its production, and its consumption.
No single culinary creation tells us more about
the whole story of world and American food than
the submarine-hoagie-grinder-torpedo-zeppelin-bomber-hero-garibaldi-Italian-musalatta
sandwich. This talk will be about that world
and American history through the deconstruction of
that great American creation."
Bruce Kraig is Professor of History
and Humanities, Emeritus, at Roosevelt University,
where he taught a wide variety of courses in
history, anthropology, and popular culture, and
since retiring from Roosevelt he has lectured
about food at the culinary school of Kendall
College, Chicago. Professor Kraig has
appeared widely in the electronic media as writer
and on-camera host and narrator for a multi-award
winning PBS series on food and culture around the
world. His publications range from books and
articles in academic journals on European and
world prehistory through American history.
He has written hundreds of articles on food in
newspapers, journals and for encyclopedia.
His books about cookery and culinary history
include Mexican-American Plain Cooking; The
Cuisines of Hidden Mexico; Hot Dog: A
Global History; Man Bites Dog: Hot Dog
Culture in America; editor Cooking
Plain: Illinois Style (2012), co-editor
(with Colleen Sen) Street Food Around the
World: An Encyclopedia of Food and Culture
(2013), co-editor (with Colleen Sen and Carol
Haddix) Food City: The Encyclopedia of Chicago
Food (2017) and A Rich and Fertile Land
(2017). He is the editor of the “Heartland
Foodways” book series for the University of
Illinois Press. Professor Kraig holds a BA
from UC Berkeley (1962) and MA and PhD degrees
from the University of Pennsylvania (1963, 1969).
* * *
“All human history attests That happiness for
man,--the hungry sinner!-- Since Eve ate apples,
much depends on dinner.”
--Lord Byron (1788-1824)
‘The Island’, Canto xiii Stanza 99
"Food history is as important as a baroque
church. Governments should recognize cultural
heritage and protect traditional foods. A
cheese is as worthy of preserving as a
sixteenth-century building."
--Carlo Petrini, Founder of the
Slow Food Movement.
“A soup like this is not the work of one man. It
is the result of a constantly refined tradition.
There are nearly a thousand years of history in
this soup.”
--Willa Cather, 'Death Comes for
the Archbishop' (1927)
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